In recent months news reports have surfaced of runaway cars complete with grisly details of accidents that have occurred as a result. In some cases police dispatchers can be heard offering counsel to those who automobiles are speeding down a highway out of control.

Even now automobile manufacturers are at work correcting this problem that has involved many vehicles. In some cases the auto’s engine has dropped back to slower speeds allowing the owner to bring it to a halt. In other instances more tragic results have occurred.

In years gone by a time or two, while I worked on my car, I have allowed the throttle linkage to become disconnected. Under certain circumstances this can allow the engine to “run off.” On older model cars the device that controls engine speed is often quite simple, merely a metal hinge or slide type device that is retained by a spring keeping the engine at a speed acceptable to the driver who works the accelerator pedal.

Newer and more sophisticated automobile engines have speed controls that involve throttle position sensors and other sensitive devices. At present opinion seems to be divided among those studying the problem of engine speed control as to the major causes that create this “runaway effect.”

Listening to a nationwide broadcast by an auto “expert” recently, I heard the following advice:

“If your car suddenly accelerates press the brake pedal firmly, pull over to the side of the road and turn the key off.”

My response to this advice was astonishment as to its simplicity. My response was also surprise at making the solution to the problem sound so simple. It is not! Here is the problem.

When a modern motor car goes to maximum RPMs (revolutions per minute) even a small engine can produce tremendous torque (twisting power). If it does, it is highly unlikely that applying the brakes of the vehicle will result in shutting down the engine — there is simply too much power for the relatively small brake surfaces to overcome.

At high speeds, applying the brakes while the engine is delivering power to the wheels will simply “glaze” the braking surfaces, making them of no effect. Once so disabled the braking system figures little in effectiveness.

One awful circumstance in which a gentleman’s expensive foreign car was running off, at speeds over 100 mile per hour, the terrified driver can be heard saying, “We are in trouble.” He had tried braking with no result. As it turned out, his cry was terribly prophetic. The car crashed killing him and his family. So very sadly, this driver had the means to save the lives of himself and his loves ones basically in his lap.

Here is what needs to be borne in mind by every driver when he or she pulls away from one’s home headed to an intended destination. No engine can operate if it is deprived of electrical power. This simply means that among the other alternatives at one’s disposal in such an emergency is the most simple of all: switch the engine ignition to the “OFF” position. In every vehicle I remember driving in the past many years this means specifically reaching up to the steering column with the right hand and, with hand on the key or ignition switch, turning the top of the switch back to the driver, this is counterclockwise. The result will be that instantly the engine will “die,” that is will shut off.

Whether the auto is traveling at high or low speeds the effect will be a noticeable slowdown almost instantly. Once the engine is no longer turning the brakes may then be applied with good effect to allow the car to be steered safely to the side of the roadway. In my opinion this is the simplest,  and probably safest means of overcoming the problem of a runaway vehicle.

Note: When the engine shuts down the power steering unit will no longer assist with steering.,  You can still steer the car to a safe stop!

A second solution to the problem of bringing a runaway car to a safe stop is to place the gearshift lever in “NEUTRAL” position. I do not advise this as a first resort for the following reason. A panicked driver may have a difficult time moving the shift lever the rather tiny amount to find the neutral position. Even if that is successful, the racing engine can be unnerving to the point of confusion as to whether what the driver did made any difference. Nevertheless, once shifted into neutral, the transmission will not convey power to the wheels regardless of engine speed. The vehicle in neutral can be guided to a safe stop.

Some have suggested that placing the shift lever into “LOW” or even “REVERSE” position. I am not knowledgeable enough about modern transmissions to speak to this issue. It seems highly unlikely to me that shifting at high speeds would effect a stop. Even if it did, the vehicle would be basically out of control. I do not see this as a wise or workable option.

Turning off the engine ignition switch or shifting to neutral are effective ways to overcome a runaway situation. When either of theses options is employed the vehicle’s braking system should be capable of maximum effect to bring about a safe stop.

Just one final word of caution. Most drivers have never heard their engine racing at full power. When shifting to neutral while engine is racing at its peak RPMs will create such a roar that many drivers can be unnerved to the degree that loss of control of the vehicle is a real possibility. Never mind the engine roar, a driver must tell himself or herself, if the engine is in neutral the engine’s power is not being transferred to the wheels. Turning off the switch will silence the engine.

Be careful, drive safely and work through your options. A runaway vehicle CAN be brought under control safely. If you suspect your vehicle shows signs of unexplainable power surges or abnormally high idle speeds it would be advisable to have the dealership of that vehicle check it out. The safety of you and your family and others on the road demands that we take proper precautions for safe driving and control.

To be sure one is prepared to shut down a runaway engine, I recommend that at slow speeds, perhaps in a relatively deserted place, the driver shut off the engine and coast over to a stop. By practicing this maneuver a driver may be better prepared to take emergency action.

Safe driving everyone!

As one who had plied the highways and streets for more than fifty-eight years,,  and having been a former discourteous driver, I can say with assurance that courtesy is critical to being a good safe and, yes, happy driver.

Hopefully, one of the following suggestions will help you or someone you influence to realize that, as we drive, courtesy is critical.

1. Hand Signal Courtesy

There are occasions when we note almost universal courtesy among drivers.,  This is refreshing.,  I experienced one today.,  I had rolled up to a light and was about the third car back.,  To my right a ladys car was poised to enter the highway from a gasoline station.,  A line of cars was behind mine.,  As the light changed for our lane I motioned for her to enter the lane ahead of me.,  She smiled and waved as she drove out.,  Probably you have benefited from this small kindness several times as have I.,  Wouldnt it be nice if this level of courtesy permeated many more driving situations?

A word of caution is in order even here though.,  Any time I give a hand signal to another driver I try to remind myself of my responsibility.,  I might accidentally signal a driver into a lane and into the path of a car that driver could not see.,  In other words, before giving an “go ahead” signal to another driver, I need to be sure it is safe for that driver to proceed.,  It takes only a moment make sure it is safe, but it is vitally important to do so.,  If in doubt, of course, it is better not to signal at all.

2. Driving With the Traffic Flow

I have heard law enforcement people mention the importance of “driving with the flow of traffic.”,  What is meant is that everyone is probably safer if all who are traveling along that roadway in the same direction are going approximately the same speed.,  Of course, this rule of thumb, like others may be abused.,  Driving above posted limits is still illegal regardless of whether or not several around you or me are doing it.,  But, as much as possible, we ought not to,  allow our presence on the highway to be an obstacle to other drivers who are driving legally and safely but faster than we.

3.  ,  Courtesy in Passing

Bicycles, Amish buggies, motor scooters and pedestrians are all traveling much slower than the average automobile.,  For safetys sake all whom we pass deserve our care in their behalf.   As we close quickly on these in our driving, it is vitally important to,  be alert that there is ample space available for safe passing.

It is unsafe (and probably illegal) to squeeze past a bike or motor scooter giving just inches in order to meet an oncoming vehicle at the same time.,  We have all seen this, probably.,  What if the biker spills at that moment–very easily a mishap, even a tragedy.,  Wouldnt it be better to hold up and pass the small vehicle or pedestrian as though we were passing an automobile?

In our area it is common to come upon an Amish horse-drawn carriage.,  I try to remember two things in such cases: the horse is an animal that can be startled and may bolt into my path.,  That small vehicle affords no protection for its occupants.,  These are reason enough to pass with wide, generous clearance and with the least disturbance possible.

During inclement weather, often there is water on the roadway in seams or puddles.,  As a courteous driver I dont want to splash that water on the people who are depending upon me to give them a break.,  You have probably been walking somewhere and have had a passing car splash you.,  I dont need to ask you how you felt.,  No fair chuckling with your passengers about how the column of water you sprayed almost knocked a biker off his two-wheeler.

3. Responding to Discourteous Drivers

It took me many years to give a proper response to discourteous drivers.,  If I had not been a Christian, it would probably have taken a lot longer.,  Let me give a few examples.

Driving at night we are often approached by drivers who have the high beams of their headlights blazing into our eyes.,  It doesnt hurt to give them a quick flash of ours to remind them.,  What happens after that is most important though.,  If the person doesnt go to low beams there is the temptation to “bright light” that driver.,  Stop and think!,  When I do that, I am setting up a dangerous situation.,  Neither driver can see very well; there could be a head-on collision.,  That is very high-priced retaliation.

In recent years this is what I do: I quickly ascertain whether or not those bright lights are really a danger to me or merely an annoyance.,  In most cases I dont even use my high beams to flash the driver–I simply concentrate on doing my part.,  Usually in seconds we pass each other and the incident is over.,  My reward: I feel a lot better about myself and I know,  my conduct,  has not endangered another.

There are situations in which overly aggressive drivers use their vehicles to “run a bluff” with us in order to be first or to take some perceived advantage.,  What is the best response?,  I believe it is simply to let them do it.,  Vehicles are expensive.,  Safety to lives is important.,  Peace of mind is enjoyable.,  Courtesy has hidden dividends.,  Many have been the times when for the above reasons I have relinquished “my rights” in such situations only to see the discourteous driver embarrassing himself by blundering into an error brought on by his own thoughtlessness.,  We ought not be courteous drivers in order to bring smug satisfaction to our lives but an occasional soft chuckle might not hurt!

4. “Have a Nice Day”

Have you ever seen a discourteous driver race an elderly couples car to a vacant parking place in a shopping mall only to notice him holding the door for someone on the way into the store?

What does this tell us?,  To me it indicates that when we get behind the wheel of a car it is easy to forget our manners.,  Most strong young men would not elbow an old lady out of the way to go through a door first.,  Why would we do that in a car?

If, when we are driving, we keep ourselves aware of courtesy to others around us, it is easier to remember that peace of mind is the path to a nice day.,  Usually honorable conduct does not go unnoticed.,  If you are a Christian, I know the Lord will help you have a nice day as you simply do what is right.,  Have you ever thought about the effect upon others your conduct has?,  Negatively, the exact opposite of courteous driving, a thing called “road rage”, will not only steal your peace of mind, it has been known to take lives.,  Do you see why I say “courtesy is critical?”

Yes, our conduct does impact others.,  This example took place as I was walking from my car to a shopping center.,  I noticed a discarded bottle on the pavement in my path.,  I picked it up and tossed it into a nearby trash receptacle.,  On the way back out of the store a distinguished elderly gentleman walked up to me.,  He said, “Sir, I saw you pick up that old bottle.,  You did a nice thing.” I felt good.,  Yep, courtesy is critical.

Have a nice (driving) day!

Most passengers in a motorcar, I believe, appreciate a driver who is thoughtful of them. In fact, I honestly believe safety itself is a good reason to practice smooth driving. In this day of gasolines astronomical price rise, I am sure your fuel efficiency will improve, too, with the mastery of some simple but important principles of smooth driving.

First, lets talk about motion. A sure sign of either an inexperienced or thoughtless driver portrays itself as the driver approaches a stop light or sign. When the driver toes the brake to a stop and holds firmly to the pedal to the absolute stop, the auto will lurch, at least slightly. If you are coming down from a higher rate of speed and “pin” the brake pedal this lurch will be very pronounced. The forward motion of passengers (and the driver too, of course) will tend to continue as the vehicle beneath them lurches to a stop. That rocking back and forth, to me, creates the feeling that I am part of a rodeo on the receiving end of what is being dished out by a contrary horse! There is a better way.

With a little practice, during routine stops, the driver can let up the brake pedal, ever so slightly, just before complete stop. You will still come to a complete stop but the motion will be absorbed as you ease the brake and the passengers will experience a smooth ride during your stop.

The same is true as you accelerate. I have ridden with enough of those who practice “pedal to the metal” acceleration away from a light to wonder if they believe the purpose of the head rest is to prohibit the snapping off of the heads of the passengers. This is probably the single most expensive bad habit you can develop as a driver.

Fuel efficiency drops dramatically as the RPMs (revolutions of the engine per minute) spike. Two other bad things happen in this case as well. First, every engine has only so many RPMs available in its life. Wear on piston rings, rod and main bearings plus cylinder wear all contribute to the eventual demise of the engine. In a sense, the more you ask from an engine determines the length of its life. Secondly, greater stress on the rest of the autos systems will come into play. What starts must stop with respect to driving in traffic. Constant unnecessary use of the brake pedal places excessive wear on brake pads and linings and, to a lesser degree, the whole brake system. Remember what the man in the car care commercial said? “You can pay me now or you can pay me later.” Car work is expensive. Why not pay later? The whole drive train, especially the expensive transmission, is adversely affected by “jack rabbit” driving. Ugh!

The automobile I presently own, my wife and I bought used as a “one owner.” Every sign I could read of the car from its past told me it had received good care. Since I bought the car four years ago I have taken it to 159,000 miles from the 95,000 it had at the time. With just the decent maintenance we have given it, today you can barely hear the engine run. It burns no oil between changes. “Why is that?” you ask. The primary reason, I believe, is that I avoid high RPMs as I drive. Not only do I not drive at excessive speeds, I keep the engine turning at ample but not unnecessarily high speeds through the lower gears.

A driver can also contribute to the comfort of his passengers by paying careful attention to the grade you are on. As you round a curve and note a drop or rise in the grade, as you continue through that grade, you can minimize the discomfort of centrifugal force by alert driving. Stay within your own lane, of course, but practice “driving across the curve” you are approaching. That is, minimize the amount of “turn” you must place on the wheel. By dropping down to the bottom of the curve as the pitch of the roadway becomes more pronounced, you can gradually give way to the higher side with less effect upon your passengers (and yourself). The reverse is also true. As I said, stay within your own lane. But, most roadways are wide enough for a little latitude. Use it. None of your passengers will notice your thoughtfulness enough to say so, probably. But, if they have to “hold on for dear life” because you are ignorant or thoughtless of a few ways to enhance their comfort, you may hear about it.

Have a safe and happy drive!

I had a keen interest in what he was saying because, at the time, I was one of his statistics. Let me tell you how it happened.

I had just picked up my wife from work and was approaching our driveway when I spotted a number of trash objects which had accumulated in our yard just beyond the drive. I casually pulled down to where they were lying and eased up beside them. After exiting the car and picking up the trash items, mostly paper things, I returned to the car and instead of backing away and onto the pavement, I decided to loop around and head back toward the garage. Mistake!!

My “co-pilot” remarked as I made my turn, “This might be soft here.” Her words were terribly prophetic! Immediately the car mired down in front. Our Buick has front-wheel drive and is somewhat heavy. After a couple of attempts to “rock the car out,” I quickly gave up.

I think Jane was somewhat surprised that I capitulated after so brief a struggle. Well, we have a tractor in the garage with chains on the wheels. Had I used it to pull us out the back yard would have been cut to ribbons with enough holes to bury all the neighborhood dogs. I decided that was out. Then too, rapidly shifting back and forth is tough on a modern automatic transmission; a bit of an expensive risk.

It looked like a good opportunity to apply Car and Driver Tip #3, “Winching Your Car Out.” But, alas, I was not on a lonely road in the middle of nowhere. I was “on display” about thirty feet from a busy street. My efforts would have brought in neighbor guys and others and we would all have been up to our ears in mud in short order.

Actually, I surprised myself even, at the ease with which I went into the house and called a towing service. When the wrecker arrived he pulled up adjacent to the car and unrolled his winch cable and quickly attached it to the back axle. He made it look surprisingly easy as he hooked the winch in gear and slowly “wound me out.”

As I handed him my credit card, it occurred to me that I could have done worse. I remarked to him: “The only thing more embarrassing than getting stuck in your yard would be to get stuck in your neighbor’s!” He agreed.

So, my driving tip today is simply this: always inspect, on foot, ground that might be soft before pulling into it. Especially avoid pulling the drive wheels over such ground unnecessarily.

Picking up those three pieces of trash cost fifty bucks. I could have walked for them a lot cheaper. And today, my back, feet and legs are sore from shoveling and tramping the holes back into shape for spring mowing. Watch those soft places!

To begin with, I always drive with my left foot just above the brake pedal. The only exception I allow myself is if I am on a rural freeway where traffic is light.

Some young people have told me that driver education teachers advise against this practice, saying that, in an emergency, one is likely to slam down the feet on both the brake and the accelerator if both feet are available. Certainly that is a possibility but I can only relate that I have had to make many emergency stops, always using my left foot for braking and it has never happened to me.

I will, however, relate in this article how driving with the left foot over the brake pedal did, indeed, help save me from a terrible accident. Before I do so, I want to make a few additional safety observations regarding approaching a rural intersection.

Some drivers seem to drive with their observation limited, as it were, to a couple of feet in front of the radiator cap. In other words, they do not pan the view very far out in front of them. I believe this is a critical error that, sooner or later, will probably result in an accident.

As I approach a crossroad I watch the traffic approaching the highway I am driving. I quickly note who is obligated to stop. If it is the cross-traffic I watch the action of the other driver or drivers to observe whether they are slowing to a stop. I usually glance at them several times to verify that they are intending to stop.

If I am uncertain that they are stopping, I begin to feather the accelerator of my vehicle to gradually reduce speed, including dropping out of speed control. To be perfectly blunt about it, I make sure that if the approaching driver “blows” the stop sign or signal that it is his vehicle that is going to be hit, rather than mine. Over the years, there have been a few cases in which I have come to a crawl to be sure I have avoided an accident.

Great care needs to be taken that someone following you, if you slow down in the manner I have just described, does not create a rear-end collision. But, if it comes to it, you must avoid a frontal crash and let the driver behind you do his best to comply with the law of driving within the “assured clear distance ahead.”

Now for my illustration: Years ago I was driving, with my wife in the front passenger seat beside me one late afternoon. We were in southern Michigan on a four-lane unlimited access highway. The traffic flow was moderate in both directions with a grassy median between the lanes, two in each direction.

I was panning the crossroads during this drive and there were numerous ones. Suddenly, in my vision to my left I caught sight of a Ford pick-up truck approaching a stop. In the instant I had at my disposal I realized the driver might have his vision of me obscured to some degree by the traffic passing toward me on the opposite side. I was being especially cautious.

The posted speed on this stretch of road is 55 MPH. I estimate that my speed was about 50 at the time in question. I remember placing my left foot on the brake pedal with no pressure but with conscious recognition that I might have to stop.

Suddenly, the pick-up disappeared from the spot I knew he had to be to observe a stop. In a heartbeat I glanced in the mirror to be sure no traffic was close behind or passing me. At that moment I knew the truck had to be a second or so away from blocking up my path. I instinctively hit the brakes. I was driving a full-size Plymouth sedan, a car of nearly two tons.

The pick-up flashed out in front of me. A young man was at the wheel and his female passenger was there in front of me, just a few feet from the front of my car with only her door for protection. My car was now in a full slide but remaining in a straight run. To the credit of the offending driver, he “poured on the coal.” As we continued our slide I was gratified to realize we would probably hit the truck in the front part of the bed just aft of the passenger compartment. But, no, as Providence would have it, his speed and my sliding to a stop combined for the nearest miss I have ever seen or experienced.

The lesson: maintain eternal vigilance on the highway. The life of somebody’s sweetheart may be in the balance. It might be yours.

Drive safely!

The other day I saw one such picture. A mid-size car was shown, driving at a high rate of speed, and just going into a full spin-around. The car went in a full 360 -degree spin and more. Meanwhile, a huge semi-truck rig passed the spinning car, also at high speed. Thankfully- no crash!

Some years ago, I had just left my place of employment and was driving slowly and as carefully as I could over a very slippery and snow-covered roadway, a freeway, north to my home. Suddenly, as though out of nowhere, a young man, a work companion of mine, blew by me in his late model car like I was stopped.

At that point, we were approaching a curve. The turn at this curve is to the left, about forty degrees. The young man who passed me was almost on the turn when I saw his brake lights come on. At that moment his car went into a skid as he fought the wheel to make the car turn left. In moments he spun around backward and went into the right side guardrail with a mighty crash. He was okay but his dignity and his car were much the worse for wear!

Here are the four rules I practice on ice and snow:
Rule #1: Drive no more than 2/3 as fast as you are sure it is safe to drive.
Rule #2: Drive without using the brake pedal.
Rule #3: Drive without using the accelerator.
Rule #4: Drive without turning the steering wheel.

You say, “That is silly, you couldn’t make any time at all driving like that!”

What I mean, of course, with my four rules, is that every function of normal driving is to be ABSOLUTELY MINIMIZED. And, by the way, you are not driving on ice and snow to make good time. You are driving to keep everybody alive and to get where you are going shiny side up.

Drive Safely.

Things are different these days. To be sure, there are many “Good Samaritan” folk on the roads today and some of them have helped me. I have helped others over the years. But, due to an increased crime rate and a very independent public, hurrying on their way, a car problem on the open highway can be a serious matter.

Though automobiles are much more dependable these days and problems fewer, a flat tire is still not an uncommon experience. Here is how I recommend such a problem be handled. If you are a man in good health and acquainted with you car and tire changing techniques you may not want to follow my advice here. But for older folk and women traveling alone, here is what I recommend.

When you have a car disabled with a flat tire you can, of course, pull to the side of the road, place a white cloth out your window or raise your car hood and hope for help. If you have a phone with you, then you can try to contact a tow truck or gain help some other way. Here is the problem: While you await help, you do not have your choice as to who stops and offers “assistance.”

If it is nighttime or on a lonely stretch of highway, you may be in some danger. I do not recommend that you remain stopped and wait for help. Most highways, particularly major ones, have a wide paved berm. Often they are striped to indicate that they are to be used for emergencies only. When you realize you may have a flat tire, of course, you will want to pull safely to the right onto the berm and, with your emergency flashers activated, carefully inspect for the problem.

As an alternative to simply waiting for someone to appear who may or may not have your best interests in mind, when you have a tire problem, here is what I have taught my wife to do: With your emergency lights activated and staying well clear of the driving lane, drive your car very slowly to a point you are sure is safe to exit the car. You may ask, “Won’t that ruin the tire?” Yes, the tire, in such cases is finished. However, very often driving only to a stop from highway speeds on a flat tire will already have ruined the tire. You and your safety are more important than a $50 tire.

If you sense you are far from an interchange where you may obtain help, you may have to drive some distance on a flat tire. The two most important things are: 1) Drive very, very slowly. Two or three miles per hour is still progress. Any schedule you previously had is now a thing of the past. Your present safety is the issue. 2) Be absolutely sure you do not interfere with traffic in any way. Your full and most vigilant attention must be given to this emergency driving. Stay as far from the driving lane as you can.

If you encounter a law-enforcement officer during your emergency drive, he or she will offer help which you should accept. If you are approached by someone appearing to be law enforcement but with a vehicle that is not so marked, I would, myself, not stop. Anyone can buy a flashing red light. Unfortunately, there are criminal-types who masquerade as “helpers” who ply the highways for victims. Rather than being one of them, it would be better to look unappreciative to a well-meaning stranger, if it comes to that.

“But I could damage the wheel rim too, couldn’t I?” Yes, you could but unless you had to drive a good number of miles, you can control the car at very slow speeds without much collateral damage. For my part, I would greatly prefer a ruined tire and a damaged rim to what might happen should my wife stop and ask help from the wrong person!

Drive safely!

The tragic death this past week (December 6, 2006) of Mr. James Kim of Oregon gives focus for a suggestion you can use to save yourself when your car is stuck in mud or snow.

After several days of waiting at the site of their automobile at a road junction where its wheels had become stuck, Mr. Kim struck off across country for help. He walked about nine miles but became lost and his body was later found less than a mile from the family car. James’s heroism is most commendable, of course. His family is justly proud of his sacrifice.

From the numerous news reports and photos I have studied, I believe the Kim family could have extricated themselves from the dire situation in which they found themselves, using only the things they had at hand.

The Kim family had the car’s jack which they obviously used because they burned, one by one, the car’s tires to attract attention. Oddly enough, their jack was the key to their own rescue, in all probability.

This is what you should attempt to do to get your vehicle onto solid footing. Carefully survey the situation around the car, paying close attention to the most likely place into which you will try to maneuver your car to get it out of its stuck condition. You can use the jack as a kind of “winch” to “walk” the car out of the mud, snow, etc. Determine the closest point to which you intend to move your car, especially the drive wheels.

Assuming the footing for your car’s jack base is firm enough to support the weight of the car, position the jack at the recommended jacking point nearest the wheel that is stuck. If the car is on a grade, a chunk of wood or other object should be placed on the grade side of a wheel at the opposite end of your vehicle from the wheel you are jacking. The shift lever should be put in “neutral.” If the jack’s base starts to sink into the ground as you jack, let the car back down and find twigs and small stones or other objects to place under the base to support it.

There is an element of danger in what I am suggesting so great care for yourself and your passengers should be observed at every point. After all, this is an emergency measure of last resort.

If you have one or more able-bodied passengers with you, their help can be crucial to your success. Before you begin jacking, position all those passengers side by side so they can push your vehicle in the direction you need to go. Have them take a firm stance with feet and legs away from the car as much as possible. Now begin raising the car on the jack.

Raise the car as high as you can as you extend the jack out. The vehicle will become somewhat unstable as you raise the car. When you have reached what you believe to be the highest point you can safely raise the car, pull the jack handle from the jack carefully and join your passengers on the side of the car (or front or rear, depending on which way you intend to go). On a given signal push the car off the jack using as much force as possible. With a little practice the car will move over on the stuck end anywhere from a few inches to maybe a foot.

Retrieve the jack and begin the process all over again. You may need to improvise, even to the point of jacking the other end of the car and pushing that end toward your desired safe point. This process is slow, but it will work.

Some years ago, I pulled off a paved road to turn around in an area I thought was “high and dry.” I was wrong and found myself stuck in mud about fifteen feet from the dry road. I began the process I have described above. After about an hour of working I had moved the car approximately four feet. In another two hours I would have reached dry ground.

During my work to extricate the car a truck passed by and, seeing my difficulty, the driver used a tow cord and from the dry highway, pulled me out.

I believe the Kim family could have saved themselves by using this self-winching method I have described. They had time, reasonable weather in which to work, an operable automobile and plenty of wood and limbs around them by which to create a base over which to move the car.

Why not copy this article and put it in your car’s glove compartment and then hope and pray you never have to use it. But, if all else fails you can!

As you drive in such conditions, it is good to scan the panorama ahead. There are ample opportunities to save money as well as to drive with an increased measure of safety. Watching the traffic flow will allow you to adjust your acceleration with a view to using the accelerator and brake pedal lightly and sparingly. With a little practice you can accomplish this with scant notice to those driving near you. I assure you, however, that your gasoline bill will be an object of notice. It will go down.

There are additional benefits too. Every use of the brake pedal puts a measure of wear on the brake system. “Stopping on a dime” is expensive. Most brake shoes or pads wear more quickly on the front wheels. Crunching stops carry with them a demand for more braking power. Such stops wear brake surfaces far more than more gradual ones. Allowing yourself to drive with such habits costs money. Perhaps more important, it lulls the driver into forgetting that driving in such a manner on slippery surfaces can easily result in an accident.

Actually, what I am suggesting is merely an extension of an existing traffic law within most states. It is called “driving within the assured clear distance.” It is unlawful to drive, ever, in a manner such as to be unable to bring one’s vehicle to a safe stop due to the lawful actions of other drivers moving before you. “Jack rabbit starts” and spectacular stops will eventually lead such a driver into an unsafe situation that will probably result in an accident.

Finally, there is another benefit. Your passengers will enjoy their ride with you as you drive in a consistent manner that displays care, smoothness and predictability. On the other hand, we have all probably had the misfortune to ride with a driver whose habits throw his passengers around on the seats and lead to “white knuckle” experiences.

Try driving for a week as though there were eggs atop your accelerator and brake pedal and see if you don’t experience a pleasant difference. I’m sure your regular passengers will!

You can be sure fuel prices will never be a real bargain again such as we have known here in America for the past many years. Oil rich countries will see to that. Therefore, we need to be wise stewards of the use of our vehicles.

Let me give you a tip on what I have done to add a touch of economy to my fuel usage. The discount houses such as Wal Mart and Meijer, carry small air compressors for inflating tires. A fairly nice one costs about $18.00. I bought one and have put it to good use.

About every six to eight weeks, I attach it to the cigar lighter in the car and use it to adjust the air in the car tires. It comes equipped with a built in gauge that allows it to shut down when the compressor has inflated to the level you desire.

You can use your auto manual to look up the recommended tire pressure for your tires. If that doesn’t work, call a tire shop indicating the size of your tires (printed on the tire wall) and they will give you a recommended pressure for setting the gauge on your tire compressor. I usually set mine a pound or two higher to allow for any air that escapes when you disconnect the inflation head from your tire. ( Typical tire size: P 205-75-15.)

Any tire shop can verify that a contributing factor to poor gasoline mileage is under-inflated tires. Also, the tires themselves wear out more quickly when under-inflated. If you do your homework here, you can save the price of the inflation compressor in a year or less. Not only that, but the compressor has a build-in trouble light you are sure to need sometime. Don’t spend when you can save!